Ten Tips to Survive Vietnam's Traffic



DON’T spend hours waiting to cross the street on foot: that constant tide of traffic won’t
stop until late at night, so

DO as the Vietnamese do: take the plunge and inch slowly across. Observe the Miracle of
the Red Sea, as the traffic parts like magic, flowing smoothly in front of you or behind,
meeting up again on the other side.


DON’T make any sudden or unpredictable movements: freeze if you have to, but never
lunge forward or backward towards the safety of the sidewalk. In fact, you can do just
about anything, but do it with conviction!

289_Ho_Chi_Minh_Traffic
DON’T forget, if you’re riding or driving, to look where you’re going – all the time: if
you hit anything in front of you, then it’s your fault.


DO give way to any vehicle bigger and noisier than yours. Trucks and buses are
particularly dangerous: often old, sometimes unsafe and usually all over the road.


DO watch out for unfamiliar obstacles: water buffaloes, rocks of various sizes, brokendown
trucks…, people sitting in the road, missing bridges, girls in ao dai cycling five
abreast, slow-moving mountains of farm produce, dog fights, impromptu football
matches, piles of building materials – and almost no light on anything at night..


DON’T hesitate to take evasive action – even if this sometimes means leaving the tarmac
or coming to a dead stop.


DO try to avoid getting involved in one of the all-too-frequent minor accidents that
plague Vietnam’s roads (and the major ones as well, of course), but if you are unlucky,


DON’T lose your cool, in spite of the interference of the large and vocal crowd that may
gather: try to settle things amicably and swiftly. Sometimes, paying a reasonable amount
of money will save you a lot of hassle.


DO remember that the only rule is: you’re not allowed to bump into anybody…
irrespective of what they did or should have done, or of what the road signs or traffic
lights were telling them to do. Some people still seem to think that anything red means
forward, comrade


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Transportation In Vietnam: DOs & DON’Ts



Planes, Trains & Buses
DO consider flying if you’re going a long way within Vietnam, because any other means
of transport is always much slower and sometimes only slightly cheaper.
DON’T get stuck in the mud: in the rainy season, road and rail are frequently flooded or
even washed away in the regions that are hardest hit.
DO reconfirm any flight to make sure there’s no change.
DON’T arrive at the airport just in time for a domestic flight. Until recently, it was
actually more expensive for foreigners to travel from Hanoi to Hochiminh City by train
than by air. And this is for a journey that still takes a couple of days as opposed to a flight
lasting a mere couple of hours!
If what you are after is seeing plenty of scenery and having time to meet people and chat
with them, DO let the train take the strain. Trains are still very slow, despite reports
almost weekly that they are picking up extra speed. They are also a bit noisy and often
rather Spartan, but a very pleasant and civilized means of transport, with much more
legroom than any kind of bus, and conserve some of the charm of a bygone era. They
offer – for a price – air conditioning, plush seats, comfy sleepers and gourmet food in a
restaurant car.
DON’T opt for the bus if you’re prone to claustrophobia, motion sickness, are pregnant,
suffer from a weak heart or actually expect to have a good time. The Vietnamese are not
renowned for the safety or courtesy of their driving.
DO use local city buses: once you’ve worked out where to catch the ones you want, these
present an excellent (and stunningly cheap) way of getting around. Cities in Vietnam are
investing in new buses and improving the service in an effort to combat traffic
congestion.
DO keep things on the planes, trains, and your hired vehicles clean. In case there’s
something wrong you may find, call the master right away, or else you may get into
trouble later.


Taxis, xe om, and cyclos

 Xich-Lo
Taxis are fairly cheap and plentiful
DO check that the driver starts the meter, unless you agree to a price before you move off
and then stick to it.
If you use taxis, xe om, or cyclos, it’s best to always make sure you have some small
notes on you. The “sorry, no change” line is often used to try and round up the fare to fit
your bank notes. If you only carry 50,000 VND bills, it might get expensive.
DO make sure the driver has really understood where you want to go rather than just
answering “yes” to everything you say and then driving around aimlessly – with the
meter running – with the hope that inspiration will strike from some unlikely quarter… If
you can’t make yourself understood, show your destination to him in writing.
A xe om is a motorbike taxi, a very popular and practical way of getting around. You’ll
find them on every street corner in the country – or rather they’ll find you and eagerly
offer their services. This is the fastest way to get across town without having your own
bike and is often the best and cheapest way to get to a distant beach, village, site, airport,
etc. DO fix a price before you hop on, politely ignore any attempt to renegotiate the
amount along the way and check that you are indeed where you want to be before you
pay off your xe om. You DON’T need to bring along a helmet cause all xe om drivers
carry one more (besides theirs) for customer.
Cyclos, or bicycle trishaws, offer a quiet, leisurely and eco-friendly way to cover short
distance. Cyclo features three wheels. DO choose Cyclo to enjoy a city tour as it moves
quite slowly.
DON’T take Cyclos late at night, unless you know your way around as this is not a very
safe option.
Car, motorbike and bicycle rental
Cars for rent at comfort are Japanese 4x4s and Russian jeeps for long journeys and
remote regions visiting. But they usually come with a driver. Yet, car is still not the ideal
form of transport for Vietnam’s narrow roads and saturated city streets.
For short stays in Vietnam, your driving license from your own country should be
sufficient, provided it applies to motorcycles. If possible, DO obtain an official
Vietnamese translation of your license.
DO remember that this driving license will usually only be valid for the same period as
your visa! After that, you start the process over again! But experience will make the
process much quicker!
Renting bicycles and motorbikes is cheap and easy. And this service is now offered
almost everywhere in Vietnam. However, DON’T take the risks involved lightly: the
number of foreigners implicated in traffic accidents – from minor spills to major, horrific
trauma – is proportionately high, and this is a country with a soaring accident rate.
DO take the time to rent a bicycle for a few days before you rent a motorbike. This will
allow you to familiarize yourself with local conditions without quite as much speed, risk
and hot metal being involved.
DO check the brakes, lights and wheel bearings on any vehicle before you rent it.
DO keep sharp eye on your rented motorbike to avoid theft.
In Vietnam, horns are heavily used: a motorbike sill runs with no lights or little brakes,
but if the horn doesn’t work, the bike needs fixing. Some young sparks have the amusing
idea of fixing a powerful car horn to a scooter. So DON’T let it get to you. If you start
screaming at people for blowing their horns, they will simply stare at you in amazement.
DO use the horn yourself when you drive, otherwise, it can be dangerous.
Helmets are now used by all motorbike riders as a rule. So DO remember to use one for
yourself.
DON’T buy a Chinese helmet: it might look as good and be cheaper but it won’t resist a
serious impact.


Walking
When walking around in the cities, DO beware of traffic: As crossing the road, follow the
zebra crossing, and wait until the light turns blue. Still, remember to look around before
crossing as motorbike riders sometimes run even at yellow light and at high speed.

Driving license
Technically, a foreigner needs a Vietnamese license to drive anything above 50cc; while
this is rare if ever enforced, your papers won’t be in order if you have an accident,
whether it’s your fault or not.
For short stays in Vietnam, your driving license from your own country should be
sufficient, provided it applies to motorcycles. If possible, DO obtain an official
Vietnamese translation of your license (unless it mentions that you are not entitled to
drive). Official translations can be obtained at the public notary’s offices in most large
towns. It normally only takes a couple of days and a few dollars.
An international driving license is only a recognized translation of your own country’s
license.any official-looking, photo-bearing document can be an asset when negotiating
your way out of a delicate situation with local policemen or authorities.
If you intend to stay in the country for longer periods and wish to do more serious
driving, then you might want to apply for a local driving license. You will need quite a
bit of patience for this and a hefty pile of papers and letters that will include photocopies
of passport, visa, driving license and originals of your driving license official translation
as well as a letter from your sponsoring agency (not needed if you are on a tourist visa).
DO remember that this driving license will usually only be valid for the same period as
your visa. After that, you start the process over again.


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Shopping In VN: DOs and DON’Ts



Markets & Minimarts
DON’T miss the markets: among the most atmospheric in Southeast Asia and still the
hub of commercial activity everywhere in Vietnam. Notable markets in clued floating
ones in the Mekong Delta, Cho Lon market in the district of Hochiminh City that bears
the same name, the large fruit and flower market in Da Lat, any of the major markets in
Hanoi, the colorful Sa Pa market and other ethnic minority markets in the mountainous
north of the country.

a-tb-hoi-cho-tu-thien-5


DO go early when shopping at local markets. Goods are brought fresh everyday from the
countryside and without refrigeration they will suffer from the heat as the day drags on.
Shopping in Hochiminh City is now little different from shopping in Bangkok or any
other Asian metropolis. Commercial complexes and supermarkets are also sprouting up
in Hanoi and other sizeable towns.
DO check the expiry dates carefully on any imported produce you buy: many of the more
obscure items in these shops have been quietly gathering dust (not to say rotting away)
for years. In Hanoi, you may notice a baffling remnant of the city’s old ways. Tradesmen
as part of Chinese-style commercial guilds were traditionally grouped together
geographically (as many have remained in the Old Quarter), but a more modern breed of
shopkeepers, such as those selling televisions or making photocopies, often elect to bunch
together in a similar way. The practical upshot of this is simply impossible for the
moment to obtain, say, a tennis racquet. Then, one day, you will turn a corner into an
unexplored street and be confronted by an entire row of shops selling nothing but tennis
racquets.


Bargain, bargain, and bargain
The idea of a fixed pricing system is still quite novel in most commercial contexts, which
means that a little good natured haggling is an important habit to develop. Anywhere
outside of supermarkets, restaurants and anything controlled by the state, bargaining is
possible and usually essential.
DO be warned that, as you are always easily spotted from a distance as a foreigner, you
will be asked to pay more than locals. Sometimes just a little more, but often
outrageously more, even if this is not always immediately obvious to you, especially
when relatively small sums are involved. It might seem like a snip, but you may be
paying ten times the going rate.
If you feel mean haggling over such small sums or are tempted just to pay up for a quiet
life, DON’T forget to think of other people who will pass this way after you. You should
not be too afraid of offending local sensibilities: if you pay vastly over-inflated prices
without a murmur, you’ll simply be seen as the sucker you’re letting yourself be taken
for!
DO negotiate firmly if you want to rent a place: as a foreigner, you are a good prospect,
since you will almost certainly pay more than a local, you won’t start worshipping your
ancestors in the house and refuse to ever move out – and you may even attract other
monied foreigners to the neighbourhood. However, you should also be aware that there is
no legal protection for people renting accommodation: if you have a problem, you must
solve it with your landlord – again, through negotiation. The pleasant result is that
Vietnam has actually been getting cheaper over the last few years.

Fake goods
Much of Southeast Asia is notorious as an earthly paradise for counterfeiters and
Vietnam is no exception.
DO consider your motives carefully if you purchase counterfeit goods: if you buy a Rolex
wristwatch for $20, you know that there is no chance of it being anything like a real one,
except for its superficial appearance. If this is all you want, that’s fine, but DON’T
complain if you get searched at customs o your return home, have your fake Rolex
confiscated and are made to pay a fine equivalent to the cost of a genuine one. Copies of
expensive makes (especially good ones) pose a real threat to business and these luxury
goods companies are determined to defend their interests – and have the means to do so.
Very good copies can be found in Vietnam, particularly items such as clothes, sports
equipment and luggage. The Vietnamese are redoubtable and wily business operators,
and both foreign and domestic companies often find it impossible to prevent know-how
from leaking out. Even products made from materials imported exclusively find their way
onto the local market at budget prices.
However, DO let the buyer beware that it’s possible to find excellent deals, but only if
you really know what you are doing.
DO check the quality of what you’re buying, especially if there are safety concerns
involved.
DON’T expect to get your money back if you change your mind after making a purchase,
Impress Travel Company Limited or even if you realize belatedly that the goods you have been sold are not as advertised…
Check everything checkable yourself before you hand over your money. If it runs on
electricity, get the assistant to plug it in and test it.
What not to buy in Vietnam?
There are some products which you may find for sale here which you should avoid.
These may be illegal in Vietnam or your home country, or simply may encourage
destruction of the environment and harm to the local people. These include:
Coral and coral products. Buying these products encourages destruction to Vietnam's
irreplaceable coral reefs.
Sea Turtle products. You may find preserved sea turtles in shops - particularly sold in
the open in Hanoi. This should be obvious--but sea turtles are endangered and all
products made from them are illegal.
Rice wine containing whole animals or animal products. Wildlife populations have
been decimated in Vietnam. Many of the animals and animal parts used as ingredients in
rice wine are globally threatened and endangered - including the snakes.
Ivory, bone and tooth products. This animal product will be illegal in most home
countries, regardless of which animal it came from. The only allowable products may be
those made from farm animals--but this may be very difficult to distinguish.
Alligator and crocodile leather. This is illegal to transport between many countries.
Drugs - including marijuana are illegal and the sale or use of them can carry SEVERE
penalties.
Prostitution is illegal and destroys not only yourself, the person you engage with, and
your family. Aids and other serious STD's are VERY COMMON in Vietnam--even the
countryside


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Shopping In Vietnam In Brief



Shopping in Vietnam is a fun and interesting experience, and guarantees good bargains to
those who know what to look for. It is true to say that you can find nearly anything in
Vietnam. Markets vary from high class shopping malls, supermarkets to bustling open
market, galleries, boutiques and street stalls.
It is not recommended that you buy imported, famous branded products such as clothing,
perfume or electronics in Vietnam as tax makes these items more costly than neighboring
countries.
In terms of shopping for tourists, Vietnam is most famous for its handicrafts, war
souvenirs, authentic clothing, art, antiques and gems.
Hotspots include Hanoi, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City, each of which has a temping
selection of everything from avant-garde art to sumptuous silk suits.

Shopping in VN in brief

Art and Antiques
Vietnam has very strict regulations about exporting real antiques. There are several shops
to hunt for art and antiques. Both traditional and modern paintings are a popular item.
More sophisticated works are displayed in art galleries, while cheaper mass-produced
stuff is touted in souvenir shops and by street vendors. Be careful and check your sources
for certificates if they claim to sell you an original or antique piece.

Clothing
Vietnam is emerging as a regional design center and there are some extravagant creations
in the boutiques of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
Clothing varies greatly from tourist T-shirts to beaded handbags and traditional ao dai
(the traditional costume) made to fit your size. Items made from silk are a popular buy,
with prices varying depending on the material and tailor. Pre-made traditional dresses are
sold in many places. However, it is more recommended to have the dress made to fit your
body, which takes more time and slightly more money.
Shoes, slippers and handbags made from traditional materials (silk and bamboo) can also
become unique gifts and accessories.
The Vietnamese traditional conical hat, can be found everywhere throughout the country,
but hats made in Hue are most famous as they have a poem embroiled on the inside.
Non (conical hats) are favorite items for women in both rainy and sunny times. The best
quality ones can be found in the Hue’s area.

Gems and jewelry
Vietnam is rich in gemstones. The jewelry business is also increasing during current
years, and sophisticated works are produced by both big businesses and traditional
craftsmen. The quality of the gemstones sold is sometimes doubtable, so it is
recommended that you buy gems at prestigious locations and be ware with cheap prices.
Impress Travel Company Limited
Phone: 844 – 3734 6777, Fax: 844 – 3232 1106, Hotline: 8912 225 694

War souvenirs
Most war souvenirs sold today in Vietnam (for example, Zippo lighters engraved with
platoon philosophy) are fake reproductions. Be careful while transporting these items as
many airlines do not allow weapons, even fakes to be carried on their planes.
Handicrafts
Other popular handicrafts in Vietnam include lacquer ware, wood-block prints, and oil
and watercolor paintings, blinds made from bamboo, reed mats, carpets, and leatherwork.

Tip: Bargaining
Bargaining should be good-natured, smile and don’t get angry or argue. Once the money
is accepted, the deal is done. Remember that in Asia, “saving face” is very important. In
some cases you will be able to get a 50% discount or more, at other times this may only
be 10%.


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10 Tips To Savvy Shopping In Vietnam



DO always ask around to get an idea of basic prices: a ride on a motorbike, a plate of fried noodles, a packet of cigarettes, a kilo of mangoes, etc. For more important purchases, try and get a local friend to go along with you, or better still, let him do the buying without you: prices are often lower when foreigners aren’t around.

DON’T feel awkward or rude about bargaining: everyone bargains in Vietnam and you’ll
look like a green tourist if you don’t.

DO insist on being quoted a price as soon as you start showing interest in a commodity or
requesting a service. It’s too late to ask once the silk shirt has been wrapped or after your bike has been fixed. This first price is your starting point and it’s quite probably too
expensive, so

DON’T look happy or resigned to paying what you’re asked: always begin by showing
your gentle disapproval, tut-tutting or saying something like: Đắt quá! (Too expensive).

10 Tips To Savvy Shopping In Vietnam

DO consider various bargaining options, not just a straight fight over figures. If you buy
several, the price should come down. Ask them to throw in some small extra you would
like, for the same price. If you are quoted a price in US dollars, ask how much that is in
Vietnamese Dong and try rounding it down. Be forewarned, though, that the concept of
the special offer is still in its infancy here (like 1 percent off if you buy a truckload)…

DON’T hesitate to walk away if you cannot agree on a price: either they’ll come after
you or you’ll find the same thing on sale somewhere else.

DO stay Zen… Shopping can be quite a rodeo when you’re surrounded by eager stallholders all shouting, smiling, waving and pointing at their wares.

DON’T buy antiques to take home unless you’re confident that you can get them out of
the country. The law prohibits their export, but remains vague as to what exactly
constitutes as an antique.

DO buy ethnic minority products directly from ethnic minority people, if at all possible,
rather than from shops run by ethnic majority merchants, who often exploit their
suppliers ruthlessly.

DON’T expect to get the better of any deal: Vietnamese have boundless reserves of experience and patience in doing business.

Ref: Good buys in Vietnam:
Lacquer ware
Ceramics Painting
Woodblock prints
Silk
Clothes in general
Embroidery
Carvings (stone and wood)
Precious or semi-precious stones (such as jade)
Jewellery
Rugs


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French Subjugation



  French colonialism in Vietnam, though short-lived (1859-1954) in com- parison with Chinese rule, distinguished itself by its sheer brutality and contempt for the Vietnamese people and their culture. France’s mission, aside from plundering and profiting from Vietnam’s considerable
natural resources and exploiting the country’s apparently inexhaustible supply of cheap labor, was to save the Vietnamese from their own political leadership from themselves by "civilizing" them. The French made the mistake of seeing the Vietnamese as "big children" with limited mental capacities, and of believing that their Vietnamese enemies were no better than common criminals who lacked patriotism and dedication.
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Above : Those Vietnam's Patriotic in French prison in 1908

  In a passage from a colonial curricular guide, French administrators’ paternalistic description of their work sounds like a noble calling, em phasizing their desire "to protect the people from themselves and their own shortcomings such as gambling, excessive superstitions of all sorts and their love of chicanery which ruins both their savings and their health" (Altbach and Kelly 1984, 19). Even for those few Vietnamese who had access to the colonial education system, opportunities for promotion and advancement were limited, in keeping with the French principle that "the lowest-ranked representative of France in Indochina must receive a salary superior to that of the highest Indochinese official employed by the colonial administration. In Understanding Vietnam, Neil Jamieson uses the example of a Vietnamese professor who graduates from the University of Hanoi, studies in France, and returns home, only to earn less than the French janitor who cleans the classroom in which he teaches (1995, 97). The main purpose of education was to create a tiny elite of Viet- namese who could assist in the administration of their own country as a French colony. By 1945, in the twilight of French rule, 95 percent of the population was illiterate. 

doi

  Above : Approximately 2 million deaths in 1945 famine

  Some, pointing to hospitals, schools, and roads, argue that France brought Vietnam the benefits of Western civilization. But although there is some truth to this, as evidenced by the restored villas of Hanoi that are now being used as government offices, embassies, and businesses, amenities such as hospitals or schools were available only to a minority of Vietnamese, while the majority suffered from the regime’s taxation policies
and racial prejudice.The transcription of the Vietnamese language in the Latin alphabet from Chinese ideographs in the seventeenth century was both a blessing and a curse. It had the net effect of severing future generations from their own national literature, written in Chinese characters, as well as from a millennium of Chinese influence (Altbach and Kelly 1984, 25). But it also had a favorable impact on literacy in the long term because it made the language easier to learn than, say, Chinese or Japanese. As in other societies, the Vietnamese language was one

of the keys to preserving Vietnam’s national identity. Each occupying power in turn regarded Vietnamese as inferior to its own language. Like Chinese, the French language dominated Vietnamese schools, the university, the government, business, and foreign relations.
anh_chien_thang_lich_su_dbphu_400
Above: Dien Bien Phu Victory 1954

  Many older men who were educated in lycées (French secondary schools) and later fought against the French nevertheless openly express their admiration and affinity for French culture. The views of these Vietnamese Francophiles, some of whom were charter members of Vietnam’s Communist Party,reflect the tendency to distinguish between peoples and cultures on the one hand and governments and policies on the other. One political factor that might explain Vietnamese openness to things French, according to a Frenchman who has spent much of his career in Vietnam,is the current French government’s foreign policy, which is decidedly more
multilateral and inclusive than those of, for example, the U.S. and Great Britain. The ways in which the Vietnamese and French cultures complement each other also offer a more positive starting point than for other Westerners. A marked French influence remains in Hanoi’s architecture and cuisine (e.g., baguettes, croissants, sauces), as well as in an openness toward French culture,even among young people.Some attribute this to a Vietnamese tendency toward selective cultural borrowing—retaining only what they like most—while others point to similarities between Vietnam as a tea-sipping and France as a wine-sipping café culture. In both soci-
eties,for example,developing a relationship,whether over a cup of tea or a glass of wine, always precedes "getting down to business." 


GiuaRungThong2
Above: The villa was built by the French in Dalat

  Among young people, English has now become the language of choice: French ranks a distant second among the foreign languages studied by Vietnamese high school and university students. But I have been approached by older people—in formal settings, such as a meeting, as well as informal ones, for example in a park—wanting to converse with me in French. As this older generation passes on, so too will much of this linguistic bridge to Vietnam’s colonial past.


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Chinese Rule



Châu chấu đá xe.- “David fights Goliath.”—Proverb
In the summer of 1945, as Chinese soldiers streamed into Hanoi, ostensibly to wrest power away from the remaining Japanese according to the terms of the Potsdam Agreement, Ho Chi Minh chastised his critics at a meeting: You fools! Don’t you realize what it means if the Chinese remain? Don’t you remember your history? The last time the Chinese came, they stayed a thousand years. The French are foreigners. They are weak. Colonialism is dying. The white man is finished  in Asia. But if the Chinese stay now, they will never go.As for me,I prefer to sniff French shit for five years than eat Chinese shit for  the rest of my life (Karnow 1983, 153).Both colorful and prophetic,Ho’s remark is indicative of a love/hate relationship with China that spans centuries. In fact, the very name of the country refers to the majority of people, who are of “Viet” (Kinh) ethnic origin, and to the location of the country in relation to present-day China—“Nam” (south). Vietnamese culture bears the imprint of many centuries of Chinese influence, especially in the North—at times willingly accepted and emulated, at other times forcibly and cruelly imposed.The Chinese occupied the Red River Delta in northern Vietnam for nearly a millennium, from 179 b.c. until national independence was restored in a.d. 938. The occupation was marked by economic exploitation and the transformation of Au Lac—“country of the Viets,” in reference to the dominant ethnic group—from a matriarchy into a patriarchal,feudalistic society. It is said that the Vietnamese had to make payments to the occupying power in the form of ivory, sandalwood,handcrafts, and work inlaid with gold, silver, and mother-of-pearl. The Chinese also introduced Confucianism, which the Vietnamese embraced as the guiding philosophy of personal and social life.Resistance to Chinese rule is best symbolized by the rebellion, in a.d. 40, of the Trung Sisters, a story that is etched on the mind of every Vietnamese. Two sisters, one whose husband had been murdered by the Chinese, led a revolt that forced the Chinese out of Vietnam for several years.When the Chinese returned, the sisters, choosing suicide over surrender, drowned themselves in a river.

Hai Ba Trung
Above: Revolt of Trung Sisters

Another Vietnamese Joan of Arc, Dame Trieu, instigated a rebellion in the third century a.d.; in the sixth century, Ly Bi led a major insurrection. Vietnamese celebrate many of these uprisings in festivals to this day. In the tenth century, as a result of internal problems and distractions, Tang China was forced to recognize a local Viet as governor. After his death, power shifted to Ngo Quyen, who defeated the southern Chinese navy on the Bach Dang River, thereby ending more than a thousand years of Chinese domination.
The next four hundred years saw several more Chinese attempts to regain power. After an eleventh-century Chinese offensive, the Vietnamese general Ly Thuong Kiet wrote a poem that is considered to be the first declaration of independence ever written in Vietnam: 30 Vietnam Today: A Guide to a Nation at a Crossroads Over the mountains and rivers of the South reigns the Emperor of the South This has been decided forever by the Book of Heaven
How dare you, barbarians, invade our soil? Your hordes, without pity, will be annihilated! —Huu Ngoc 1996, 366–67 In the thirteenth century, the Mongols of Kublai Khan invaded Vietnam three times and met with defeat each time. The only other Chinese occupation was for a brief period in the fifteenth century. From 1407 to 1427, the Ming Empire pursued a policy of assimilation, forcing the people to wear Chinese clothes and adopt Chinese customs.Variousartifacts of national culture, such as literary works,were destroyed, and craftsmen and intellectuals were sent to China. In the Hoan Kiem district of Hanoi lies the Lake of the Restored Sword. As legend has it,when the fifteenth-century hero Le Loi went for a boat ride, a golden turtle emerged from the water to take back the sacred sword that Heaven had given the hero to expel the Chinese Ming invaders. Many temples are dedicated to Vietnamese heroes who resisted the Chinese throughout the ages. Ho Chi Minh, whose name means “Bringer of Light” and whose picture adorns the walls of many homes throughout Vietnam, embodies this spirit of resistanceand independence. Ho was named by Time magazine as one of “20 people (leaders and revolutionaries) who helped define the political and social fabric of our times” in the twentieth century. In the description he wrote for Time, Stanley Karnow describes Ho as “an emaciated,goateed figure in a threadbare bush jacket and frayed rubber sandals.”Karnow writes: Ho Chi Minh cultivated the image of a humble, benign “Uncle Ho.” But he was a seasoned revolutionary and passionate nationalist obsessed by a single goal: independence for his country.
Sharing his fervor, his tattered guerrillas vaulted daunting obstacles to crush France’s desperate attempt to retrieve its empire in Indochina; later, built into a largely conventional army, they frustrated the massive U.S. effort to prevent Ho’s communist followers from controlling Viet Nam.(www.time.com/time/time100/leaders/profile/hochiminh.html) Like others of his generation who had lived in France or attended French schools in Vietnam, Nguyen Ai Quoc (“Nguyen the Patriot”), as Ho called himself at the time, learned from the West but rejected its domination. (He left Vietnam in 1911 and traveled to France, Great Britain, the U.S., China, and other countries before returning home in 1941 to lead the revolution against the French.)

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Above: Ho Chi Minh-beloved leader of the people of Vietnam

Vietnam has long had an ambivalent relationship with China. Long before the French conquest, the Vietnamese had borrowed Chinese culture, institutions, ethics, and even calligraphy while resisting China’s efforts to control their country. Even the language was influenced by Chinese: it is estimated that 60 to 70 percent of all words are Sino-Viet. In a graphic illustration of Vietnam’s ambivalent relationship with its “big brother” to the North (and of the expression that politics makes for strange bedfellows), China supported Vietnam in its war against the U.S., only to instigate a brief but costly border war in early 1979 to punish Hanoi for its crushing defeat of the genocidal Khmer Rouge regime in Cambodia a month earlier. A park in the Dong Da district of Hanoi, where children play and adults relax, doubles as a cemetery with unmarked graves.Under the grass, flowers, and laughter are buried the bodies of thousands of Chinese soldiers from a late-eighteenth-century battle,a bittersweet reminder of how China ultimately fared in its thousandyear reign over Vietnam—and also a warning for the future. Among individual Vietnamese, feelings about the Chinese are mixed.Some Vietnamese resist “buying Chinese” but admit that this is easier said than done. Coupled with concerns about the flood of cheap Chinese imports undermining domestic industries, there is also a recognition that some Chinese products are of higher quality. By the same token, there are those who admire China for its glorious achievements in literature and in the creative and performing arts. The Vietnamese intellectual Huu Ngoc observed that the psychological disposition of the Vietnamese people toward China “is ambiguous and even contradictory, marked by repulsion and attraction. In the interests of self-preservation, the Vietnamese had to pay tribute to the occupiers; at the same time, they had to thwart the Chinese goal of maintaining “‘a weakened or divided Viet Nam’” (Ngoc 1996, 33). Ultimately, they did not allow the Chinese to change or destroy their cultural values. China continues to be both a positive and a negative role model for Vietnam. On one side of the coin, its ability to create a flourishing market economy with the world’s highest growth rate while maintaining the primacy of the Communist Party is applauded. On the other side, China remains a force to be reckoned with, both economically and militarily.One bone of contention is the claim by both China and Vietnam to the Spratly Islands in the potentially oil-rich area of the South China Sea (known as the “East Sea” in Vietnam). There have been occasional military confrontations, some resulting in loss of life. The strategic partnership agreed on by Vietnam and Russia in 2001 is yet another attempt to maintain a balance of power in Southeast Asia. As it has so far done with great skill and finesse, Vietnam will have to continue to walk a fine line, balancing cooperation, competition, and protection of its national interest. China will continue to loom large on Vietnam’s political, economic, social, and cultural horizon.


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History and Vietnam’s “National Personality”



  In The Vietnamese and Their Revolution, John McAlister summarizes the writings of Paul Mus, the French sociologist and one-time political  adviser to France’s high commissioner for Indochina. Published toward  the end of the Vietnam War, the book, which made Mus’s writings accessible  to the English-speaking world, should be required reading for anyone interested in the influence of national history on the behavior and mindset of a people. Some of Mus’s thoughts cut to the core of the Vietnamese mentality. Mus writes, “Nearly everyone agrees that the Vietnamese are energetic and tenacious workers when they are motivated, a  situation which is hardly infrequent, especially for the peasants in the  fields. . . . The spirit or mentality of the Vietnamese the three fourths of them who continue to lead the lives rooted in the traditions of the village is the essential untold story about Viet Nam. (1970, 6) Indeed, even most city people in Vietnam retain strong ties to the  countryside and periodically make pilgrimages to the villages where they  or their parents and grandparents were born to pay respects to their ancestors.





   There is one main historical factor that has shaped Vietnam’s character.  The original Vietnamese, people of Mongoloid and Indonesian racialorigin who came from what is now central and southern China, based their economy on wet rice farming,which is highly dependent on weather and on complex systems of irrigation. As a result, Vietnamese communities developed a strong collective spirit. Though administratively autonomous,each village could be quickly mobilized, along with neighboring villages, in the event of foreign invasion. This made military victory over the Vietnamese problematic. Foreign forces would literally have to win the war one village at a time, and gains were often short-lived, in contrast to other countries where the fall of a fortress might mean control of an 28 Vietnam Today: A Guide to a Nation at a Crossroads entire city. Vietnamese history is generally seen as one of nation building and defense.
    The notion of mobilizing autonomous villages to resist foreign invaders is not difficult to imagine when you see the physical layout of villages on the approach to any of the nation’s major airports or while traveling through the countryside. According to the historian Stanley Karnow, Vietnam’s many wars “infused in the Vietnamese a readiness to defend themselves, so that they evolved into a breed of warriors” (1983,99). The desire to defend their country from foreign attack remains as strong as ever, but the Vietnamese are “warriors” not by their nature but only when provoked by foreign aggression. In his monumental work Sketches for a Portrait of Vietnamese Culture, Huu Ngoc, a self-described “cultural worker” and one of Vietnam’s preeminent intellectuals, writes,with understatement, “With questions of ideology fading with the passage of time, perhaps future historians will agree among themselves that,at bottom, all that fighting was for national liberation” (1996, 262).


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The mushroom dish



Fresh and dried mushrooms are used in many dishes in Vietnam and Cambodia. Dried mushrooms,however,are favoured for stir-fried and savoury fillings because of their texture and delicate taste.
Chinese black
Sometimes known as Chinese shiitake, these pungent mushrooms (nam huong) are usually sold dried. Usually lightbrown in colour with white markings on the surface, they have thick-fleshed caps which can grow to about 5cm/2in in diameter and have a meaty flavour and a distinct texture. Once softened in warm water for about 30 minutes, the stems are removed and the caps are  added to stews, stir-fries and fillings.

Straw mushrooms
Also called bulb mushrooms in Vietnam and Cambodia, straw mushrooms (nam rom) look like tiny brown eggs. The whole mushrooms are often used in braised dishes for appeal and texture.Once peeled, however, they reveal small dark brown caps and stocky, cream coloured stems which look lovely in clear broths. Very delicate in flavour and texture, straw mushrooms are available in cans.They must be drained and thoroughly rinsed before use.


Cloud ears/wood ears
Reminiscent of a human ear in shape,these wonderful looking mushrooms (nam meo) are also called tree ears.Harvested from tree trunks, where they grow as natural fungi, they are valued for their nutritional qualities and are believed to cleanse the blood. Usually sold dried, they are thin and brittle and they need to be soaked in water, where they swell up and resemble frilly clumps of rubbery seaweed. The larger tree ears are two-toned, black and tan coloured, and can be tough; the smaller black ones are more tender.The dried fungus expands to six or eight times its volume after soaking, so use plenty of water. Leave to soak for about 30 minutes, then drain and rinse well, and drain again. On cooking, the mushrooms become quite translucent and gelatinous, but still retain bite. Prized for their chewy texture,rather than taste,they are chopped up and added to stuffings and stir-fries.In Vietnam and Cambodia, these mushrooms are particularly popular in vegetarian dishes.
 Oyster mushrooms
In the wild, oyster mushrooms grow in clumps on rotting wood.The caps, gills and stems are all the same colour, which can be pearl grey, pink or yellow.Once thought of as wild mushrooms, they are now grown commercially and are widely
available in Western supermarkets.The flavour is mild, with a hint of seafood. Oyster mushrooms are popular in soups and stir-fries, and they are also used in noodle and rice dishes.They seldom need trimming. Large ones  should be torn, rather than cut into  pieces.The soft texture becomes rubbery if they are overcooked,so always add them to cooked dishes at the last moment. Buy oyster mushrooms that smell and look fresh, avoiding any with damp, slimy patches and those that have discoloured. Store in a paper bag in the vegetable compartment of  the refrigerator, and use as soon as possible after purchase. They do not keep for more than 2-3 days.


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Vietnam in the Post-World War II Era



In a serendipitous convergence of historical circumstances, the three countries that ultimately had such a profound and largely negative impact on Vietnam and its people China, France, and the U.S. found themselves in Vietnam at the end of World War II, competing for influence, each attempting to determine the fate of this geopolitical pawn and to jockey for regional influence. For China, this was an opportunity to reclaim a politically and economically important area.For France,it was a time to consolidate its power after World War II and settle in for the long term. The U.S. was at a crossroads, with the option of supporting the fledging state. Instead, because of the Cold War politics of the day, the U.S. chose to support France as a foreign occupier in Vietnam.
 On September 2, 1945, before a crowd of half a million people in Hanoi’s Ba Dinh square, Ho Chi Minh proclaimed Vietnam’s independence from France,* invoking the words of the U.S. Declaration of Independence with one minor modification: “All people are created equal.They are endowed by their creator with certain inalienable rights; among these are life,liberty,and the pursuit of happiness.”Among those in atten-dance were military officers from the Office of Strategic Services (OSS),the forerunner to the Central Intelligence Agency, which had provided support during and immediately after the war to Viet Minh forces—the Vietnamese guerrillas who were fighting the French in “hit-and-run” fashion.
    President Ho Chi Minh declared independence in Ba Dinh Square (02/09/1945)

Ho’s use of the word people is notable in a Confucian society in which women were essentially property, belonging first to their fathers, then to their husbands, and, upon their husband’s death, to their eldest sons. As Lady Borton wrote in an essay entitled “The One-Word Revolution:

*The surrounding context of this declaration and related events was the French and, for a shorter period of time, Japanese legacy of famine, poverty, illiteracy, and oppression. The famine of 1945,which resulted in the deaths of two million Vietnamese,was caused not by a shortage of rice but by the fact that so much of it had been exported to Japan during the war. Those who are old enough to remember speak of starving people and corpses lying in the streets of Hanoi. (Vietnam is now one of the world’s leading rice-exporting countries.) 
  
Ho Chi Minh and the U.S.‘Declaration of Independence,’” “By changing one word in his translation, Ho subtly but definitively announced to his own people and to the world a second revolution: Ho Chi Minh also declared independence for Vietnamese women” (www.aasianst.org/Viewpoints/borton.htm).
  Ironically, Ho and his fellow revolutionaries also found inspiration in the French Revolution, which they had studied in school, and its promise of freedom, brotherhood, and equality. As in other colonial or neocolonial regimes, they learned from the ideals espoused by the mother country, if not the policies and practices of its government.
  Ho Chi Minh, that same day, also asserted Vietnam’s right to enjoy freedom and independence: “The entire Vietnamese people are determined to mobilize all their physical and mental strength, to sacrifice their lives and property in order to safeguard their freedom and indepen-dence”(Duiker 2000, 323). The years that followed—and two more wars, ending with the unification of Vietnam in April 1975 proved him right.
After the president of the new Democratic Republic of Vietnam concluded his remarks,the legendary General Giap,then minister of the interior and commander in-chief of the army, and widely viewed as one of the greatest military strategists in world history, delivered a speech in which he praised the U.S. for its contributions to “the Vietnamese fight against fascist Japan, our enemy, and so the great American Republic is a good friend of ours”(Jamieson 1995, 196). 
  Quotes attributed to Ho Chi Minh and General Vo Nguyen Giap in the years leading up to the crushing French defeat at Dien Bien Phu in 1954, which concluded the First Indochina War, affirm Vietnam’s long term commitment to ridding the country of foreign invaders. Ho omi nously warned the French,“You can kill ten of my men for every one I kill of yours, yet even at those odds, you will lose and I will win.” Similarly,General Giap spoke of fighting “ten, fifteen, twenty, fifty years, regardless of cost, until final victory” (Karnow 1983, 18). What U.S. and other military leaders later viewed as insanity was simply a protracted defense of the homeland and a commitment to winning at all costs. And, just as the French had vastly underestimated the fighting prowess and tenacity of their Vietnamese opponents, so U.S. policymakers, ignoring their own intelligence, would later write off Ho Chi Minh, though an avowed Communist, as simply a Soviet pawn and “North Vietnam”as a satellite state.
  In July 1954, the Geneva Accords ended the First Indochina War in Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. Under the terms of the agreement, the country was to be temporarily divided into two zones at the 17th parallel until free elections could be held two years later. In 1955, however, the president of South Vietnam, Ngo Diem, convinced that Ho Chi Minh would win the elections, rejected this attempt to unite the country. This was the beginning of direct U.S. involvement in Vietnam.


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